Jabot

AKA: 

How to say it:  zhab-oh

Traditional Features: 

body template

  • a cascade of fabric that begins at the throat and falls down the front of the shirt
  • can be supported by a neckband or collar, or pinned to the neckline with a brooch or pin
  • can be several layers of ruffles or one larger ruffle

Origins…

…of the style: The first incarnation of the jabot was born in the 17th century and was simply a length of cambric or lace stitched to either side of the opening of a man’s shirt so that it would be visible under a vest and/or jacket.

The jabot then evolved into more of a bib style that hung from the neckline in ruffles. This particular style was very popular in the 18th century, so popular in fact that it overtook the cravat as the neckline of choice for upper-class gentlemen.

In the 19th century the jabot was also worn by women in the form of a cambric or lace bib that fell in ruffles from a collar band and was often held in place by a brooch or pin.

In modern times the jabot in all its lacy glory is still worn as part of a uniform ( judges, academic dress, the Speaker of the House in the British House of Commons, formal Scottish dress) and is also popular with those who have adopted the Steampunk trend, but has not really found a home in modern mainstream fashion. However, ruffle front shirts and blouses are a perennial favourite and the influence of the jabot neckline on these designs is obvious.

…of the name: Jabot is the French word for a bird’s crop which is a muscular sack in a birds digestive tract near the throat. The Jabot collar emulates the look of a bird’s crop when it is extended, hence the name of the style

For more info on Jabots try Wikipedia, Jane Austen.co.uk or check out A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion

21st Century Jabots

The Jabot as it was doesn’t really exist in the modern fashion landscape outside of the odd couture collection that is channelling the 19th century. However the influence of the collar can be seen in the ruffled necklines that are popular on shirts and blouses, available from designer boutiques to high street favourites.

karen millen versace

Karen Millen, Versace

haute hippie asos

Haute Hippie, ASOS

 

0 thoughts on “Jabot

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *