To finish off the month I have collected together my favourite neckline treatments and collars from the Spring 2014 Couture shows. Enjoy!
I had never heard of Alexandre Vauthier before looking though this Spring Collection, but a quick Google search turned up his excellent credentials and made me realise that I SHOULD have heard of him. Lesson learned! Anyway, despite the fact that his Spring 14 Couture Collection seemed to have a couple of very different vibes (as you can see by the two neckline treatments above) the structure of the collection presentation and his colour palette seemed to tell a story and when viewed in its entirety the collection somehow works.
The neckline on the left is what I have dubbed ‘couture macramé’ and is so much cooler than anything I ever created in art class! The ingenious weaving of the threads around the v-neck shape provides ample coverage whilst giving providing a lot of interest.
Meanwhile the collar on the right is everything I love about couture – gratuitous use of oodles of fabric to create an incredibly sculptural piece of art that looks amazing on the catwalk but in reality probably isn’t very practical to wear. But who cares, its couture!
The artistry of this serpentine neckline absolutely speaks for itself – so perfectly sculpted to the body (aided by some illusion fabric between the bust and the neckline) it is alluring without showing too much. Plus that purple colour and the beading – gorgeous!
I have to confess that I am not normally a fan of Versace – RTW or Couture. Not that there is anything wrong with the iconic fashion house’s collections, they’re just a bit flashy for my tastes. However, this Spring Couture offering was an exception to the rule.
The whole collection is full of pretty pastels, beautiful draping and stunning bead work. This slash/turtleneck collar is particularly excellent with the drapey softness of the fabric around the slash offset by the straight, sharp lines of the woven bandeau underneath.
Elie Saab – I love him. His gowns are on my ‘one day I will own….’ list. Needless to say the list is VERY aspirational, and even if I could justify owning one of his gorgeous creations it is unlikely that I would ever have anywhere to wear it! Oh well, a girl can dream.
This Spring Collection is a divine grouping of gowns; and with beading, lace and embroidery out the wazoo, it was hard to pick a favourite neckline among the many. In the end this white gown caught my eye as it is less floral than this other offerings and the deep v in the neckline, broken by the geometric shapes, is nicely complimented by the long sleeves. If you put a lining under the skirt it would make the MOST amazing wedding dress.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
This design house is another one that isn’t normally on my radar. I have know of it for ages, but it never normally made it into my list of ‘must see’ collections each season.
On the whole this collection has the prerequisite amount of crazy design befitting a couture runway show, with lots of prints, colour, and the use of selvage edges on skirts and dresses. Many of the necklines in the collection were fairly simple affairs, but then there were a few like this one – made up of a collection of embroidered patches the garment looks like a tattoo covering the upper torso and neck of the model. A very cool, couture tattoo.
Normally I love Valentino Couture. It is pretty and feminine and full of exquisite gowns. And while this Couture collection does have that, I wasn’t really a fan.
However, the workmanship and design of the garments in this collection is exceptional and this neckline is a perfect example. Gorgeously embroidered leaves draw the eye up towards the face, while the subtle sweetheart shape over the bust illuminates the femininity of the gown.
VIKTOR & ROLF
The Viktor & Rolf Spring collection is fun. Pretty much unwearable in the real world (unless you are a ballerina like the models) but so much fun, and created in such a simple way, which is a nice change from their usual over-the-top runway offerings.
This was one of my favourites outfits, with the little bird dipping down into the sweetheart neckline and ‘holding up’ the fabric that creates the dress/skirt. So sweet and so fun.
I am quite new to the wonders of Zuhair Murad and I can’t get enough! Much like Elie Saab, Murad’s collection features a lot of gorgeous gowns with ample beading and lace. Right up my alley!
On top of this, the man can tailor – as illustrated by the stunning white coat dress on the left. There is something about the rounded shape of the notched-lapel collar that I really like, and the rich contrast of gold in the buttons and leaf-shape belt set of the white of the garment perfectly.
The neckline on the right is a great lesson on how a classic v-neck shape can look so exquisite simply by using a gorgeous fabric and getting the proportions of the V just right.